11 de março de 2013

TANZANIA - Safari Itinerary - english



VAI NA MINHA brings you a basic guide for safaris in Tanzania. Make the most of it, for it is the result of several hours of research and actual live experiences, without any of which it is hard to make a good guide. 

I'll start by describing each park shortly and detailing what you'll find there in each season. This will help you to make your own choices. 

Next I'll give you a step-by-step plan with what to do and where to stay depending on the time you'll visit there, the money you have to spend and the level of comfort you expect. 

'm suggesting a timeframe of 15 to 20 days because this is how long our vacations usually last in this workaholic world we live in now, but I could easily stay in Tanzania for months. 

I've considered 3 itineraries, se we can contemplate the preferences of distinct kinds of travelers: 

1. For those who want to climb mount Kilimanjaro and can't leave without experiencing a safari and knowing the essentials of the local culture. 

2. For those who enjoy luxury and are not up to physical exertion, safariing or beaches. 

3. For those who are not up to physical exertion but would like to experience nature up close, a safari alternating luxury lodges and campgrounds with short walks. 

Surely these itineraries will help you to communicate with your travel agency, whose services will be invaluable. It's simply impossible to do a safari by yourself, just by renting a car. To start with, you won't be able to find the animals you want to see without a guide's trained eyes. Much less to climb Kilimanjaro: you'll require a guide and porters. 

I'll also recommend local travel agencies you can check. 


VAI NA MINHA may also offer consulting services or organize your trip, if you so prefer or require. We might even consider accompanying you there. Contact us if you wish: claudia@vainaminha.com. 


ABOUT SARFARI PARKS



Tanzania National Parks Safari 

Tarangire belongs to a much larger ecosystem, and that is why its game varies with the seasons. From around June to October, it's dry and the game returns to Tarangire's swamps, and especially, its river system. This is the best season for a game-viewing safari in Tarangire. 

If you decide to come to Tarangire at all, then we recommend spending a few days in the south of the park, which gets few visitors and retains a real air of wilderness. 

Suggested Lodge: Kikoti Lodge and tented bungalows 

Suggested tented camp: Oliver's Camp 



Ngorongoro Crater 

In 1951, the enormous Serengeti National Park was declared, encompassing the present Serengeti, plus the Ngorongoro area and surrounding Crater Highlands. However much of the southern side of this was already being used by the Maasai, hence it was split into the present-day Serengeti National Park, and the current Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA).The conservation area now encompasses a large area of the short-grass plains on the southern side of the Serengeti Plain and also the Ngorongoro Highlands, a range of largely extinct ancient volcanoes on the west side of the Great Rift Valley

The showpiece of the conservation area is undoubtedly the Ngorongoro Crater itself. Declared a World Heritage Site in 1978, this is the largest intact volcanic caldera in the world. It measures about 16-19km in diameter, with walls of 400-610m in height. 

The Gol Mountains are at the far rim, Lake Magadi in the centre with Seneto springs to the left. Gorigor swamp lies to the right and Lerai Forest in the foreground. Access to the crater is strictly monitored, with only three roads to the crater floor. It is estimated that there are up to 25,000 large mammals in the crater floor so you always see many animals on a game drive. They are mainly grazers but carnivores include a population of about 100 lions and approx. 400 hyenas. Open grassland covers most of the crater floor and this supports large concentrations of wildebeest and zebra. Buffalo, Thompson's and Grantís gazelle, eland, hartebeest and warthog are also common. Elephant are mainly found in the swamp and there is a population of about 25 black rhino. Hippos are mainly found at Ngoitokitok Springs. 


Suggested Lodge: Serena Ngorongoro Lodge or Ngorongoro SOPA Lodge

Suggested Camping: Lemala tented camp






Serengeti Migration Area 

The Serengeti is vast and beautiful; it's one of Africa's most captivating safari areas. The sheer amount of game here is amazing: estimates suggest up to about two million wildebeest, plus perhaps half a million zebra, hundreds of thousands of Thompson's gazelle, and tens of thousands of impala, Grant's gazelle, topi (tsessebe), hartebeest, eland and other antelope – all hunted by the predators for which these plains are famous. 

Some of this game resides permanently in 'home' areas, which are great for safaris all year round. But many of the wildebeest and zebra take part in the migration – an amazing spectacle that's one of the greatest wildlife shows on earth. If you plan carefully, it's still possible to witness this in wild and remote areas. 

  • Southern plains 
Vast short-grass plains cover the south of Serengeti National Park, stretching into the north of Ngorongoro Conservation Area, the south-west Loliondo and Maswa Game Reserve. Occasionally there are small kopjes which, like the forests around Lake Ndutu, harbour good populations of resident game. It's alive with grazing wildebeest from around late-November to April, but can be very empty for the rest of the year. 

  • The Seronera area 
In the heart of the national park, just to the north of the short-grass plains, Seronera has all the best features of the Serengeti and also, sadly, its worst. Scenically, it's a lovely area – with open plains, occasional kopjes and lines of hills to add interest. The resident game here is phenomenal, with high densities of relaxed leopards, cheetah and lion. The migration passes through here in March to May, but Seronera is within reach of both the Southern Plains and the Western Corridor – so from about November to June, it can be used as a base to see the migration. Seronera's big drawback is that it is always busy. 


Suggested camp: Olakira Camp – Open From 1st June to 31st March, Nomad Serengeti Safari Camp 

Nomad Serengeti Safari Camp is a classic tented mobile camp, which changes location approximately every 10 - 14 days. Its aim is to follow the wildebeest migration around the Serengeti. It is a traditional bush camp, but the comforts and standards of food and service make it a luxurious one. There is a great balance between wilderness and being a part of the bush, and comfort. 


  • Western Corridor 
Stretching to the west, almost to Lake Victoria, the Serengeti narrows into what's known as the Western Corridor. The key feature of this area is the two rivers, the Grumeti and the Mbalageti, which run almost parallel, each supporting a band of most, evergreen riparian forest. This area sustains a very good permanent game population, including plenty of zebra and wildebeest, all the predators and forest 'specialists' like colobus monkeys. The bird life is particularly varied. The migration passes through between about May and July – pausing to gather momentum before crossing the crocodile-rich waters of the Grumeti River, into the Grumeti Reserve. 

  • Northern Serengeti 
Stretching from Seronera for about 100km north, to the Kenyan border, the northern Serengeti is gently rolling country, broken by small rivers and occasional hills and kopjes. There are good permanent populations of wildlife in several areas here, including the very beautiful Lobo Kopje. It's interesting, varied country that's far from the park's main entry point in the south – and hence it receives delightfully few visitors. 

The further you go north, the fewer vehicles you see. Even when the migration is here, between about August and October, you can still enjoy spectacular crossings of the Mara River. A particularly stunning are is the wild Lamai Wedge – the area of land between the Mara River and the Kenya Border – which includes the picturesque Wogakuria Kopjie, and a beautiful series of game-rich valleys and plains. This is the only area of the national park where off-road driving is acceptable

Suggested Lodge: Sayari Mara Camp 
  • Loliondo Reserve 
West of the Serengeti National Park, lies Loliondo game Controlled Area – an area belonging to the Maasai tribes that live there. The western side of this, beside the park, is very much part of the Serengeti's ecosystem; it has much resident game and the migration passes through here as well.

There are a few camps here which have the flexibility to offer night drives and walks, often using Maasai guides – and visits to local Maasai villages. Around about October and November, there's a good chance to see part of the migration here, as it returns south.  

Suggested Lodge: Klein's Camp 



Mto-Wa-Mbu village a Massai village

In 2005, Mr. Meshuku, who is a traditional healer popularly known as the ''Laiboni'' in the Maasai language, decided to established a pre- school under a tree following a car accident which claimed life of his 10 years old while on his way back home from Esilalei Primary School situated 10 kilometers from the Emit hamlet where Mr. Meshuku lives. 

In 2007 Mr. Meshuku mobilized his hamlet community members and managed to build two classrooms and a teacher's office room. The school is located about 120 kilometers away from Arusha. 

The school at the moment has a total of 141 pupils. Mr. Meshuku is now 95 years old man with 36 wives and over 120 children and grandchildren who constitute over 80% of the pupils at Laiboni primary school



Suggested Lodge safari itinerary 


As an engineer I could not have it done without summarize everything into a table. It will be very useful for those who are not patient to read everything. Simply choose the time you want to travel and choose your itinerary.



Day 1 - Arrive at Kilimanjaro International Airport (JRO), purchase your tourist visa and go through customs before collecting your luggage. 

Transfer to Moivaro Lodge. The lodge lays 7km from the center of Arusha and sits on a 40 acre coffee plantation complete with beautifully laid gardens and walk ways Elevation - 1,500 meters / 4920 feet. 
For those who decided to travel between June and October, Tarangire can be excluded from the itinerary 

Day 2 – going to Tarangire National Park (November to May)

Drive west two hours to Tarangire National Park, in comfortable safari Landcruisers with removable roofs. Have lunch at the entrance to the park and then have an afternoon game drive, ending up at the southeastern edge of the park. Overnight at Kikoti Camp / Oliver's Camp

Day 3 - Tarangire National Park 

Full day to explore Tarangire National Park with a dawn game drive and a mid-day siesta. We then go for an afternoon game walk to a rock outcropping overlooking the valley and enjoy a fireball African sunset. We return to the lodge to have dinner and then you may opt for a night drive to study the nocturnal and diurnal creatures. Overnight at Kikoti Camp / Oliver's Camp. 

Day 4 - Tarangire for Lake Manyara  

After breakfast we leave Tarangire for Lake Manyara (95kms). Here, there are panoramic views across the volcano-studded floor of the Great Rift Valley. We stop along the way to visit Mto-Wa-Mbu village a Massai village and overnight at the Serena Ngorongoro Lodge. 

Day 5 –Ngorongoro crater (all year around)

After an early morning breakfast, we descend into the Ngorongoro crater for a full day game drive. Overnight at Crater Serena Lodge or Ngorongoro Farm House

Day 6 – Empakaai Crater 

Only 90-minutes drive from the Ngorongoro Crater, Empakaai Crater is a much smaller crater, yet endearing in its own way. A deep soda lake covers about half of the 6km wide caldera. You'll often find thousands of flamingos in the shallows of the emerald lake - giving it a spectacular pink tinge.. Drive up to the outer rims of the crater, before taking the 45-minute walk down the path through the forested slopes to the crater floor. The views from the rim over the crater to Ol Doinyo Lengai are thought to be some of the most spectacular in Africa – on very clear days you can even see Kilimanjaro and Lake Natron. Overnight at Crater Serena Lodge or Ngorongoro Farm House. 

Day 7 - Serengeti National Park (all year around)

After breakfast drive to Serengeti National Park with lunch picnic lunch, via Olduvai Gorge. Game drive en-route. Dinner and overnight at Bilila Lodge Kempinski or Serengeti Sopa Lodge. (best months to go January to April

Day 8 - Full day game viewing in the Seronera. Dinner and overnight at Bilila Lodge Kempinski or Serengeti Sopa Lodge. (optional Balloon safari in the early morning) 

May to July – Western Corridor 

Day 9,10 e 11 - Drive deeper into the Serengeti – further away from the busier centre of the park. Your destination is the Western Corridor where, during the months of May through to July, the migrating herds of wildebeest congregate. At this time you might be fortunate enough to experience the exciting and electric sight of herds running the gauntlet of crocodiles as they cross the Grumeti River. Whilst here, you'll stay at the original and very well run Grumeti River Camp 

Day 12 - Drive to the nearby airstrip and catch a light aircraft flight to Arusha. From here, either continue on to one of our beach add-ons in Zanzibar, Pemba, Ras Kutani or the Mafia Archipelago, or connect onto your international flight. 

October to December – Loliondo Reserve and Northern Serengeti 

Day 9 - Drive to Lobo game viewing around Lobo for the rest of the day. Dinner and overnight at the Kleins Camp. 

Day 10. - Full day game drive in Loliondo reserve. Dinner and overnight at the Kleins Camp 

Day 11 - Depart in the morning with a packed lunch and drive deeper into North of Serengeti National Park. Few vehicles venture this far north, so you can enjoy real wilderness and might find that you have driven for some time without seeing anyone else. Dinner and overnight at the Sayari Mara Camp 

Day 12. - Full day game drive in Northern Serengeti. Dinner and overnight at the Sayari Mara Camp 

Day 13 - After your last morning on safari, bid goodbye to your guide from the nearest airstrip before flying to Kilimanjaro International Airport. Then either continue onto one of our beach add-on. 

August to October – Northern Serengeti 

Day 9 - Depart in the morning with a packed lunch and drive deeper into Serengeti National Park. Few vehicles venture this far north, so you can enjoy real wilderness and might find that you have driven for some time without seeing anyone else. In August, the wildebeest migration will usually be passing through this area – and you are likely to see many grazing herds on your way to Sayari Mara Camp. 

Day 10,11,12. - Full day game drive in Northern Serengeti. Dinner and overnight at the Sayari Mara Camp 

Day 13 - After your last morning on safari, bid goodbye to your guide from the nearest airstrip before flying to Kilimanjaro International Airport. Then either continue onto one of our beach add-on 

Trip Price Estimative: USD 450/day/person - double room - lodges
Trip Price Estimative: USD 250/day/person - double room - tented camps
Accommodation, transport and full board included


Suggested Camping safari itinerary 

There are several semi-permanent mobile tented camps in the Serengeti. Most move seasonally, trying to anticipate the great migration's movements. Their creature comforts vary from basic tents with adequate food, to very comfortable camps that feel almost permanent. Such tented camps can be included as part of private guided safaris. 

From July to November it is located up in the northern Serengeti - this is a fascinating time to see the migration, as you might have a chance of witnessing a dramatic crossing of the Mara River! 

From November to June it moves to the short grassy plains of the southern Serengeti, where the herds gather before having their young - expect lots of predator action and huge herds here! 

The itinerary will be similar to the lodges safari taking into account the flexibility of nomad camping. 

Trip Price Estimative: USD 250/day/person 

Optional 

Serengeti Balloon Safari 

Probably the most beautiful balloon flight in the world and the ultimate Safari Experience. 

5:00 am, Serengeti Balloon Safaris will collect you from your central Serengeti lodge or camp, and transfer you by Landrover to our launch site near Maasai Kopjes. Here you will meet your pilot, receive a briefing and watch the inflation of your balloon. 

At dawn we take off, rising as the sun rises and float in whichever direction the winds of the morning take us. 

Your pilot can precisely control the altitude of your balloon: sometimes flying at treetop height, sometimes lower, offering a unique perspective and great photographic opportunities of the wildlife below. 

At other times he will ascend to 1000' or more to see the enormity and wonderful panorama of the Serengeti. From time to time the pilot must put more heat into the balloon with the powerful whisper burners. In between these burns, there is silence apart from the natural sounds below. 

The flight is for about one hour depending on conditions, on landing you celebrate in the traditional manner with champagne (well, an excellent sparkling wine), before sitting down to a full English breakfast prepared and served in the bush in 'Out of Africa' style with bone china, linen table cloths, King's silver etc. 

After breakfast you receive your Serengeti Balloon certificate and we drive you back to Seronera Lodge game viewing enroute. 9:30 am Arrive at Seronera ready to continue your day's activities. 

Trip Price Estimative: USD 450/person 



Zanzibar Beach Adventure 

Zanzibar is an experience like no other and the perfect way to end your incredible stay in Tanzania! Treat yourself to two nights at the Tembo House Hotel and two nights at the Matemwe Beach Village on the sultry island of Zanzibar. 

Day 1: Fly from Arusha to Stone Town. 

Lodging at Tembo House Hotel in old Stone Town. 

Day 2: Explore the ancient, winding streets and busy marketplaces of old Stone Town or take a spice tour of the inner island. 

Day 3: Transfer to Matemwe Beach Village: simple, clean bungalows on a huge white sand beach on the turquoise Indian Ocean. This is about a 1.5-2 hour drive from Stone Town. 

Day 4: Beach time! Take a ride in a traditional dhow, go on a snorkeling cruise or scuba dive the famous reefs of Zanzibar. 

Day 5: Transfer to the airport for the flight back to Arusha. All International flights out of Arusha leave in the evening, so there won't be any problems catching your flight home that same day. 

Trip Price Estimative: USD 1400 



Suggested local agencies 

To book your trip you can use the suggested itinerary above and send an inquire to any of the agencies bellow. 

I traveled with ZARA TOURS. It was great, very good service, nice people, they made our trip unforgettable!


If want to quote other agencies try the follow, I talked to people that used their service and it was ok.

10 de março de 2013

KILIMANJARO and SAFARI - Roteiro Sugerido / Suggested Itinerary


Para quem não tem paciência de ler tudo o video acima conta toda a viagem desde o planejamento.


Este roteiro é recomendado para quem quer subir o Kilimanjaro e aproveitar a visita a Tanzania para fazer o melhor safári do mundo.



Dia 1: Chegada ao aeroporto de Kilimanjaro - traslado para o Springlands Hotel

Dia 2: O percurso entre Moshi e Lake Manyara National Park leva cerca de 4 horas. Depois de almoço estilo piquenique na entrada do parque, inicia-se o safári de meio dia. Pernoite na Kirurumo Tented Lodge

Dia 3: Após café da manhã, saída para Ngorongoro Crater para safári dentro da cratera. Pernoite e jantar no Ngorongoro SOPA Lodge

Dia 4: Após café da manhã, caminhada na borda da cratera de Ngorongoro. Depois saída para o Serengeti National Park via Garganta de Olduvai com duração de 3 a 4 horas. A Garganta de Olduvai é um sítio arqueológico localizado ao leste das planícies do Serengeti, na qual fósseis humanos ancestrais foram descobertos pela primeira vez. Exibe paisagem incrível, resultante das mesmas forças tectônicas que criaram o Great Rift Valley milhões de anos atrás. Pernoite no Serengeti SOPA Lodge

Dia 5: Dia inteiro de safári no Serengeti. Almoço estilo piquenique no parque. 

Dia 6: Após café da manhã, meio dia de safari, almoço estilo piquenique e retorno para o Springlands Hotel em Moshi. No caminho de volta, visita a uma vila Massai. Na chegada ao hotel seu guia estará aguardando para dar as instruções referentes à subida da montanha. 



Dia 7: Início Machame Route. Saída para a vila de Machame (1490m). Na entrada do parque será feito o registro dos componentes do grupo. Caminhada pelas trilhas da floresta até o acampamento Machame (2980m). 

Dia 8: Caminhada para o acampamento Shira (3840m).

Dia 9: Caminhada para o acampamento Barranco, o mais lindo da trilha (3950m). 


Dia 10: Caminhada para o acampamento Karanga (4040m). 

Dia 11: Caminhada para o acampamento Barafu (4600m). Descanso, jantar e preparação para enfrentar o cume. Vá para a tenda dormir mais cedo, pois você será acordado por volta da meia-noite. O confronto com o cume do Kilimanjaro à noite será o seu maior teste. Obedeça seu guia, ande devagar, dê um passo de cada vez e lembre-se que, ao nascer do sol, você terá conquistado o maior pico do continente africano! Este é o dia mais extenuante. Agasalhe-se, o seu guia vai levá-lo 'pole pole' para Stella point (5.745 m) e em seguida para o pico de Uhuru (5 895m). A caminhada vai durar aproximadamente 6 horas. 

Dia 12: Descida para o acampamento Mweka (3.100 m). 

Dia 13: Descida para Mweka Gate Park. Alpinistas bem-sucedidos receberão seu certificado por terem alcançado o cume. Retorno para o Springlands Hotel em Moshi. Depois do almoço, você pode fazer um city tour em Moshi e conhecer os mercados locais. Pernoite no Springlands Hotel. 

Dia 14: Após café da manhã, caminhada nos arredores do hotel para conhecer Moshi um pouco melhor e visitar o orfanato. Após almoço, traslado para o aeroporto de Kilimanjaro. 

preços: 

bilhete de avião de São Paulo / Kilimajaro: aprox. USD 2000 




Suggested itinerary for those who are going to climb kilimanjaro and would like to enjoy the best safari in the world.


Day 1: Arrive at Kilimanjaro airport - transfer to the Springlands Hotel for overnight bed and breakfast.

Day 2: The drive from Moshi to Lake Manyara National Park takes about 4 hours. After having a picnic lunch in Manyara, you start a late afternoon game drive, which is the best time to view animals in this park. Overnight at the Kirurumo Tented Lodge

Day 3: After breakfast, drive to Ngorongoro Crater for a game drive inside the crater. In the late afternoon drive to Ngorongoro SOPA LodgeE for Dinner and overnight. 

Day 4: After breakfast, trecking in the Ngorongoro crater rim. After drive to Serengeti National Park via Olduvai Gorge takes about 3 to 4 hours. Olduvai Gorge is an archaeological site located in the eastern Serengeti plains, in which early human fossils were first discovered. It has an amazing landscape that resulted from the same tectonic forces that created the Great Rift Valley millions of years ago. Then, in the late evening drive to and overnight at the Serengeti SOPA Lodge - full board. 

Day 5: After breakfast, venture into the Serengeti’s wilderness corners for a full day of game viewing in the park. With a picnic lunch beside you, take your leisure while exploring this world heritage site, where earth’s largest concentration of plain game still roams free! 

Day 6: After breakfast, half day of game viewing in the park. After a picnic lunch, drive back to Springlands hotel in Moshi for overnight bed and breakfast. In the way back stop for a visit to a Massai Boma. In the late evening sit at the garden for briefing for the mountain climbing. 

Day 7: Machame RouteDrive to the Machame village (1490m). From here a forest track sometimes requiring a 4WD vehicle leads to the Machame gate. Walk along forest trails to the Machame camping area (2980m). Day 8: to Shira campsite (3840m) 


Day 9: to Barranco campsite (3950m) 






Day 10: to Karanga campsite (4040m) 


Day 11: to Barafu campsite (4600m). Rest, have dinner prepare for your summit assault. Retire to your tent early as you will be woken at around midnight. The summit night on Kilimanjaro will be your greatest test. Listen to your guide, walk slowly, one step at a time and remember at sunrise you will have conquered the greatest peak on the African continent!! This is the most strenuous day. Dress warmly; your guide will lead you 'pole pole' to Stella point (5,745m). Continue to Uhuru peak (5 895m) after about 6 hours you will summit the roof of Africa! 

Day 12: descend to Mweka hut (3,100m). 

Day 13: to Mweka park gate. Successful climbers receive their summit certificate for making it to the top. Return to Moshi at Springlands hotel. After lunch you can go for a city tour in Moshi to know local markets. Overnight at Springlands hotel bed and breakfast. 

Day 14: After breakfast short walks near the hotel to know a bit more about Moshi and visit the orphanage. Check out after lunch for a transfer to Kilimanjaro airport 

prices: 

complete package with Zara Tours: aprox. USD 4300

Kilimajaro - A Descida / The Descent

Por Daniel Chu - colaborador VAI NA MINHA


Vista do Kilimanjaro: Face sul do Kibo ao por do sol
View from Kilimanjaro: Kibo's southern face in the sunset


Ficamos pouco mais de 1 hora no topo da África: o pico Uhuru no Monte Kilimanjaro, a 5895m de altitude, no norte da Tanzânia, junto à fronteira com o Quênia. Agora, passados quase 3 meses, percebo que é quase impossível recordar as emoções daqueles momentos preciosos. Mesmo na hora, era difícil saber exatamente o que eu estava sentindo. Era uma sensação mista de sonho e de descrença em estar vivendo uma experiência única em um lugar tão especial cujo visual é arrebatador: De lá, naquele momento era possível observarmos a leste o sol nascer acima do Monte Mawenzi (o segundo maior pico do Kilimanjaro com 5149m), provavelmente o nascer de sol mais bonito que vi na vida; a lua cheia que nos acompanhou durante toda a subida ao cume ainda brilhava distante do horizonte a oeste; o que seria todo o interior de uma enorme cratera vulcânica ao norte e as famosas geleiras e neves eternas do Kibo (o maior dos 3 picos do Kilimanjaro) estendendo-se por todo o lado sul, isso tudo em meio a uma vasta planície de savana.


We lingered on top of Africa for a little over one hour: on Uhuro peak in Mount Kilimanjaro, at an altitude of 5895m, in the North of Tanzania, right on the border with Kenya. Right now, almost three months later, I realize that it is almost impossible to remember the emotions from those precious moments. Even at the time it was difficult to know exactly what I felt. It was a mix of a sensation of a dream coming true and disbelief to be living such an unique experience in such a special place and such a breathtaking vista. At that moment we could see the sun rising on the East over mount Mawenzi (the second tallest of Kilimanjaro's peaks, 5149m tall), probably the most beautiful sunrise I've ever seen in my life. The full moon that followed us during the whole climb still shone far from the horizon, to the West. The whole of a vast volcanic crater stretched to the North, and the famous glaciers and eternal snows on Kibo (the tallest of Kilimanjaro's three peaks) spread itself to the South. All of this right in the middle of endless savannah plains.



Vista do Topo da África. Ao fundo: Monte Mawenzi. À direita: As neves eternas do Kilimanjaro


The view from the top of Africa. In the background: Mount Mawenzi. To the right: Kilimanjaro's eternal snows.

Estavam comigo os três que me fizeram companhia ao longo de toda a jornada: minha prima Cláudia e os guias locais Nechi e Chayo, sem os quais, não seria possível chegarmos lá. Diversos caminhos levam ao cume e o que escolhemos percorrer o mais popular, a rota Machame, também chamada de rota “Whisky” pelo grau de dificuldade (a rota mais tranquila é chamada de rota “Coca-cola”), mas considerada como a rota mais bonita.

Embora o Kilimanjaro não seja considerado uma montanha de difícil escalada, qualquer escalada que requer vários dias para se completar não deixa de ser uma experiência intensa e desafiadora. De fato, não se trata de uma escalada, pois não exige nenhuma técnica especial de alpinismo, mas é necessário um bom preparo físico e no tão esperado dia de ataque ao cume, o desafio se mostrou bastante respeitável. Neste dia, para percorrer a distância de aproximadamente 5 km que separa o acampamento base (Barafu Camp a 4673m de altitude) do cume, levamos mais de 7 horas.

Apesar dos cuidados que tomamos com a alimentação e a preparação (inclusive optando por realizar o percurso em 7 dias para melhor aclimatação ao invés dos costumeiros 6 dias dos pacotes mais populares), durante esse percurso final, pudemos experimentar alguns dos efeitos mais comuns causados pela alta altitude como dores de cabeça, enjoos e outros desarranjos. Por conta também do cansaço extenuante, tivemos não apenas que fazer paradas adicionais não previstas como também passamos a caminhar em um ritmo mais lento do que o já lento ritmo pole pole (devagar em Swahili) habitual, para que pudéssemos continuar em frente.

A parte final do ataque ao cume é particularmente difícil não só pelo evidente cansaço. Além de ficar cada vez mais íngreme, o terreno também começa a ganhar uma consistência arenosa e com isso, cada passo que dávamos para acima era acompanhado de um deslize de volta para baixo tornando a luta tanto física quanto mental. A partir desse ponto, passei a sentir a necessidade de descansar a cada 5 minutos por causa da exaustão e sede. A água que carregava comigo em garrafas plásticas já estava parcialmente congelada, o que indicava que a temperatura já estava a alguns graus abaixo de zero e o frio que até então estava suportável, agora começava a incomodar.

Porém, nada havia nos preparado para o desafio que viria a seguir: a volta.

Depois de encarar a disputa com os outros turistas pela vez para tirar as fotos junto da placa que marca o local do cume, eu estava tão exausto e com as pontas dos dedos tão geladas que não aguentava mais focalizar as paisagens deslumbrantes no visor da câmera. Ajustei então o zoom no ângulo máximo e entreguei a câmera para minha prima, que assim saciou a inquietação que vinha alimentando desde quando sua câmera quebrou ainda na metade do caminho.



Após um rápido descanso começamos a descida. O caminho de volta não é o mesmo da ida e os mais de 4000 m de altitude que conquistamos em 6 dias de caminhada são vencidos em apenas um dia pela rota mais curta e usada apenas para a descida conhecida como rota Mweka. Trata-se de um caminho extremamente íngreme e escorregadio que leva de volta ao acampamento Barafu, depois para o acampamento Mweka e daí para o início da rota.
Along with me were the three people who tagged along through the whole journey: my cousin Cláudia and the local guides Nechi and Chayo, without whom it would be impossible to get there. There are several paths to the summit, and we chose to tread on the most popular one, the Machame path, also known as the “Whisky” path for its high difficulty level (the easiest path is called the “Coca-Cola” path), but also the most scenic one. 

Even if the Kilimanjaro is not considered a tough mountain to climb, any climb that takes several days to complete is still an intense and challenging experience. Indeed it might not even be considered a climb at all, since it doesn't require any special mountaineering techniques, but a good physical condition is essential and, on the day we tackled the way to the summit, the challenge proved to be a considerable one. From the base acampment (Barafu Camp, at an altitude of 4673m) to the summit there's a distance of approximately 5 km, which we took over seven hours to go through. 

Despite all our attention to nutrition and conditioning (we even chose to make the journey in seven days instead of the usual and most popular 6-day trip packages, so we could adjust better to the environment), we experienced some of the most common side effects of the high altitude during this last stretch: headaches, nausea and other misgivings. Also due to the exhaustion we had not only to take additional and unplanned breaks, but also to walk at a speed even lower to the already slow “pole pole” (“sluggish” in Swahili) pace, just so we could go forward. 

The final attack to the summit is particularly difficult, not only because of the plain weariness. The ground not only becomes steeper and steeper, but also sandier, so that each step upward was followed by a slide downward, making the struggle not only physical but also psychological. From this point forward I felt the need to rest every five minutes, such the fatigue and thirst I felt. The water I brought with me in plastic bottles was almost completely frozen by now, an evidence that the temperature was by now a few degrees below freezing, and the cold, until that moment just a nuisance, now became a problem. 

Nothing had prepared us to the next challenge, however: the way back. 

After we got past some contention with the other tourists for the chance of taking our pictures by the sign that marks the summit's location, I was so weary and my fingertips were so frozen I wasn't able to focus those spectacular vistas on my camera's screen anymore. So I set the camera's zoom to wide angle and handed it to my cousin, who was then able to put to rest the anxiety she nurtured from the moment her camera stopped working halfway up the mountain. 

After a short break we started to descend. The way back is not the same as the one up, and the more than 4000m of altitude we took 6 days of walk to conquer go past us in just one day through a shorter route, used only to go downhill, known as the Mweka route. It's an extremely steep and slippery path that takes us back to Barafu camp, next to Mweka camp, and then to the beginning of the original path.
Vista da Rota Mweka: Descida do Kilimanjaro
The vista from Mweka route: descending the Kilimanjaro

O último trecho do caminho é um passeio agradável, mas o primeiro é uma verdadeira prova de resistência e velocidade, no nosso caso ainda acentuda porque como demoramos para chegar ao cume, já partimos de lá atrasados (nossa equipe de carregadores ainda teria que desmontar nossas barracas no acampamento Barafu após um breve descanso nosso para então voltar a monta-lo no acampamento Mweka onde iríamos passar a última noite).

Sentimos-nos como numa corrida nas dunas, usando a gravidade para chegar logo à linha de chegada no acampamento base. Descíamos como se estivessemos patinando, deslizando os pés, mas mesmo deslizar é uma dificuldade, pois o terreno além de pedregoso e todo irregular ainda é instável.

Se o tempo estivesse pior, eu provavelmente teria encontrado forças para descer deslizando mais rápido e acompanhar o ritmo dos demais, mas depois de sentir por várias vezes a fadiga dos músculos das pernas e as descargas de ácido láctico, começei a sentir pena dos meus dois joelhos – ambos já submetidos à cirurgia de reconstrução do ligamento cruzado posterior – e, detestando a experiência toda, continuei deslizando lentamente no limite da dor.

O sol já estava alto e o frio congelante sentido no cume deu lugar a um calor intenso que tornava ainda mais agonizante essa descida. Mais uma vez tivemos que parar para descansar. Mas dessa vez, já o pior já havia passado, estávamos agora a poucos metros do acampamento base. O mundo estava acendendo ao sol da manhã é a vida era maravilhosa. Tínhamos subido o Kilimanjaro e em breve estaríamos de volta ao conforto de casa.



Neste momento, abracei minha prima e não me lembro o que dissemos um para o outro; provavelmente algo banal, mas me lembro vividamente da sua expressão de alívio por termos conseguido chegar lá e do profundo sentimento de amizade que aflorou enquanto percorríamos juntos o último trecho dessa aventura inesquecível.


The last part of this route is a lovely walk; the first one, however, is a genuine test of endurance and speed, even more for us, who took longer to get to the summit and therefore left it behind schedule (our team of load bearers still had to put our encampment down in Barafu camp after we took a short break, so they could put it up again at Mweka camp, where we'd spend our last night). 

We felt as if we were in a race among the dunes, using gravity in our favor to cross the finishing line at the base camp as soon as possible. It felt as if we skated our way down, feet skidding, but even sliding downhill is not easy, for the ground is rocky, irregular and uncertain. 

Had the weather been uglier I'd probably had found the inner strength to slide faster downhill and catch up with the rest of the troupe, but after feeling my legs' muscles exhaustion and lactic acid shoot through them a little too often, I began to have mercy of my knees – both of which had undergone reconstructive surgery on their posterior cruciate ligament – and, hating the whole experience, kept on sliding downhill slowly, on the limits of my pain. 

The sun was up, and the freezing cold we felt at the summit gave way to an intense heat that made the way down even more unbearable. Once more we had to stop to rest. By this time the worst was already behind us, we found ourselves a few meters away from the base camp. The world was lit by the morning sun and life was wonderful again. We had climbed the Kilimanjaro, and soon we'd be back to our home's comfort. 

At this moment I hugged my cousin. I can't remember what we said to each other; probably nothing special, but I vividly remember her expression of relief for having made it and the profound friendship that we cultivated while we made together our way through the last stretches of this unforgettable adventure.


Nós e o time de guias e carregadores que tornaram possível a aventura. Acima à esquerda: Cláudia. À direita: Daniel

The both of us and the team of guides and bearers that made this adventure possible. Top left: Claudia. Right: Daniel

Autoria / Author: Daniel Chu - colaborador VAI NA MINHA

22 de fevereiro de 2013

TAPATI - Moenga, Tui Korone - artesanato

TAPATI – Moenga, Tui Korone – Craftwork

Feito pela Maria, a vencedora eterna deste concurso
Made by Mary, the eternal winner of this competition


A Ilha de Páscoa já seria um destino maravilhoso só por suas belezas naturais, mas com as pessoas que vivem lá, se torna um lugar ainda mais especial. O festival Tapati é uma síntese desta cultura e deste povo. Os Rapa Nui estão em sintonia com a natureza e SUA natureza, seus instintos. Se expressam de todas as formas: pela energia e adrenalina do esporte, pela sensualidade da dança, pelos sabores e magia da comida e pela arte. Esta postagem fala de arte.

Easter Island would be an excellent destination by itself just for its natural wonders, but it becomes an even more special place because of the people who live there. The Tapati Festival synthetizes this people and its culture. The Rapa Nui are in synch with nature and with THEIR OWN nature, their instincts. They express it in all kinds of ways: through the energy and adrenalin of sports, through the sensuality of dance, through the flavors and magic of food, and through art. This post is about art.


para lembrar o cenário onde tudo acontece
A souvenir of the stage where it all happens


Maria no seu processo de criação
Maria during her creative process



as obras de arte
the works of art


Ela ganha todo ano! parabéns Maria, eu tenho a honra de ter um feito por ela
Every year she’s the winner! Congratulations, Maria, I’m the proud owner of one of the pieces she made


outro artista, outra arte, outra forma de expressão
Another artist, another craft, another means of expression



ela não é linda! faz parte da natureza local
Isn’t she beautiful? Part of the local nature!


não tem que ter só força ou rapidez, como vimos no esporte, tem que ser hábil e delicado
It’s not enough to be strong or fast, as we’ve seen in the sport competitions, they must be skillful and careful as well











agora o julgamento e o que vença o melhor!
Now it’s up to the judges, and may the best one win!


Agradecimentos a Tito Atan nosso colaborador e fotógrafo na Ilha de Páscoa e um excelente guia!

Thanks to Tito Atan, our partner and photographer in Easter Island, and an excellent guide!


Leia também:
Learn more: